And More Thermal Waters

I think we are addicted to Greek thermal waters. It’s May and the Greek sea is still a bit cold for us who are used to the heat of Brazil. We are searching for hot waters that are free to fit within our budget.

We left from Cave of the Seal, on the steep cliffs of the Loutraki “peninsula,” stopping for a night at the Mediterranean Sky shipwreck to sleep and appreciate the impressive wreck in the morning, then heading to the island of Euboea or Evia. Evia is the second-largest Greek island in area and population, after Crete, and the sixth largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. It is separated from Boeotia in mainland Greece by the narrow Euripus Strait (only 40 m (130 ft) at its narrowest point).

The road held surprises and adventures for us.

The journey from Cave of the Seal to Elefsina near Athens, where the Mediterranean Sky shipwreck is located, was terrifying. It was already nightfall, the road was winding, with steep climbs and narrow parts. After overcoming the fear of breaking the car or not being able to get out of the region, having to turn back or whatever, came the indigestible surprise of sleeping in the middle of a dump.

We had read that the parking lot overlooking the shipwreck was full of garbage, but we thought people were exaggerating… but waking up in the morning, my God! We even had the displeasure of seeing a small truck dumping garbage in the open. We left quickly without taking the walk to the Mediterranean Sky.


The road to the island graced us with a distant view of the Acropolis, as we passed through Athens. Already in Chalcis or Chalkida, the first city at the entrance of the island of Evia, the beautiful and majestic Roman aqueduct welcomed us! Another 130 km of bucolic, somewhat arid landscape, but with a good road, although winding as expected for an island with its mountains, and we arrived in the small village of Loutra Edipsou.

The good thing about not researching deeply about what’s coming is that we parked in a place that was very close to the thermal baths, but we encountered a very steep parking lot, two large, beautiful but abandoned mansions on the left, hot water flowing and some boards to cross it towards the mansions… very strange. No pools in the mansions, nothing in the sea where the water was flowing, just a bench to enjoy the view.

We walked further into the village, and there, indeed, were beautiful old buildings, and… a large grate with the sound of water and lots of steam! Crossing the street, channels with a natural yellow from the minerals deposited by the water, and from the guardrail on the street we saw the splendor of the stairs covered in yellow sulfur. Searching for thermal waters and being graced with a unique and unforgettable landscape is the best gift!

Walking further, we finally arrived at the pools! Imagining that notable historical figures like Aristotle and Plutarch, who already mentioned the healing properties of the waters, passed through here. Roman emperors like Hadrian and Marcus Aurelius also reportedly visited the springs, wow, what a privilege! We changed our parking spot and stayed at the top of the springs, right in the center of the village, next to a beautiful church. Now that was the perfect parking spot! Flat, silent, free, best location! We went down for a bath at night and there were some people there.

Useful tips

The pools are lit, have showers for bathing, and hooks to hang your things. If you are not a thermal baths expert, as I am not, here are some tips on what to bring:

  • Bathrobe: I find it very chic to see people walking around with a bathrobe before or after the bath.
  • Flip-flops or water shoes: it is very slippery, we saw many people falling, including an old man who got badly hurt.
  • Hair cap if you want to preserve your hair.
  • Small mug to pour water on your lap, shoulder, neck – of course, you can lie down and not need any mug, you can also sit and use your own hand, but I saw someone with a mug and found it great!
  • Water bottle to stay hydrated. I saw people arriving with even two bottles of mineral water. They left them on the edge of the pools and drank while relaxing. It’s very important to stay hydrated, especially because you can lose track of time there (even though there is a huge clock on the wall!).
  • Swimsuit, of course!

The first pools are very, very, very hot, as the water at its source has a temperature of 78 degrees Celsius, so they are always empty and people are in those closer to the sea. You will see several bags, and they are used to block or direct the water, making the pools more or less hot. Each hour of the day requires a different arrangement.

The golden tip for Loutra Edipsou is to go to the “waterfall” that is to the left of the pools, the water falling gives a massage from the Gods. Lie on your back and enjoy! When you get out (if you can hahaha) go into the sea to see the formation of the rocks on the side. You can walk there, but I advise you to wear water shoes, as the rocks are slippery and full of sharp points.

If your budget is not as limited as ours, know that Loutra Edipsou hosts a variety of modern spa and wellness centers, offering treatments like hydrotherapy, mud baths, and massages. Many hotels in the area have their own spa facilities.

We ended our trip visiting the gift shops. We came across the village’s cinema. How interesting! The village has a wide variety of restaurants and cafes. And if I were you, I wouldn’t miss the chance to sit on this deck that has free entry. At the back, you will find benches, shade, and a sea view just for you!


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